Monday 2 November 2009

Fibres

Notes taken from our first elective meeting:

Natural Fibres,
Vegetable:
Seed-> Cotton, Organic Cotton, Coconut
Stem/ Bast Fibres-> Flax, Hemp, Jute, Nettle, Ramie, Abaca (Banana Fibre from Sisal, Coir, Pineapple stem)
Leaf-> Peat, Pinukpok (Banana Leaf)

Animal:
Hair-> Wool, qiviut, mohair, cashmere, angora
Silk/Protein-> Silk
Hide-> Leather/Fur

Man-Made Fibres,

Vegetable:
Protein-> PLA (corn starch), Biofibres (spider/goats milk)
Rubber
Paper
Alginate
Cellulose-> Viscose

Mineral:
Petrochemical-> Polyester, Polyamide, PVC, PU, Polyethylene, Polypropylene
Carbon
Metal
Glass
Ceramic

Life Cycle


Cotton->
Picture is from:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/shuttercontrol/2106336489/

Sustainable Production:

->Cotton provides about 45% of the world’s fibre consumption, and is the worlds largest non food crop

->Conventional agriculture accounts for 25% of global insecticide use

->Organic cotton is becoming more widely available

->Naturally coloured cotton is a commercial product

->Cotton can be recycled and composted


Improved Performance:


->Cotton must compete with synthetic fibres in offering improved functionality

->Wind and waterproofing qualities can be added via ‘nano technology’ without altering the fabric’s look or touch

->Core spinning encases stretch elements inside cotton yarns

->Crease resist and easy-care finishes can be added

->Genetic modification can assist with improved crop yields but iscontroversial due to questionable environmental performance


Flax->

Picture is from:

http://www.oilseedworks.com/


Developments In Commercial Fibre Sources:


->This very ancient raw material is known as linen, and offers a wide variety of end uses and products

->In addition to clothing textiles, linen is used in automotive, construction, domestic and interior textile areas

->Enzyme use has improved environmental aspects of production

->Combinations with stretch fibres, silk, viscose and polyester provide a range of functions and characteristics, plus reducingcreasing problems


Silk->

Picture is from:

http://www.geo-agrotour.ge/5.html


Developments In Commercial Fibre Sources:


->This protein based animal fibre is known for its aesthetic appeal & luxurious qualities

->Genetic manipulation can create finer and longer fibres, and inbuilt colour.

->Wild silk from South Africa provides a sustainable income for rural populations

->Strong fine silk fibres are used in the medical world, cosmeticproducts, paper making, insulation and thermal underwear


Wool->

Picture is from:
http://photo.net/photodb/photo.tcl?photo_id=2286013

Developments In Commercial Fibre Sources:

->The original high performance fibre, wool has inbuilt thermal qualities, is weatherproof, has UV resistance, fire protection and elasticity properties

->Sportwool is a mix of merino wool with polyester for active sports clothing

->100% machine washable wool is now available

->Wool is a regeneratable resource, can be produced organically andrecycled


Technical Developments:


->Superfine wool hairs are twice as fine as a human hair

->A viscose-like raw material can be produced from protein found in wool keratin

->Non-woven wool textiles produced by hydro-entanglement reduce fabric production costs to a one step process

->Wool’s versatility makes it useful in industrial, automotive, agricultural and geo-textiles


Luxury Hair Fibres->


Picture is from:

http://www.ronanfibers.com/ronanfibers_009.htm


Developments In Commercial Fibre Sources:


->The most expensive and highly prized fibres in the textile world are obtained from animals living in cold climates

->These hollow hair fibres are excellent thermal insulators and have a soft handle

->Naturally gathered moult hair from farmed fox & mink can be spun and used for excusive knitted, woven or felt products

->Muskox, opussum, rabbit, camel, vicuna and cashmere kel goats all supply luxury fibre


Bast Fibres->

Picture is from:

http://www.maritimeheritageeast.org.uk/themes/maritime-trades/ropemaking


Non-tradtional Fibre Sources:


->Fibres such as nettle, jute and ramie are derived from the inner fibrous stem material of certain plants

->Some crops can offer environmental & social benefits for local native farmers & should be encouraged

->Health giving herbs like luobuma from China produce textile fibre plus beneficial herbal remedies and medication

Hemp->


Picture is from:

http://themoderatevoice.com/15688/hemp-ban-reefer-madness-indeed/


Non-tradtional Fibre Sources:


->Man’s oldest cultivated fibre, hemp is a versatile crop where every part has a use

->It has natural strength, UV resistance, thermal properties & durability

->This naturally renewable resource requires little agricultural assistance

->Hemp is now seen in denim and casual sports fabrics, interior and domestic textiles. In non-woven form it is used for insulation in cars


Leaf Fibres->


Picture is from:

http://www.faqs.org/photo-dict/phrase/2090/leaf-structure.html


Non-tradtional Fibre Sources:


->A minority area as only a few plants have the necessary commercial attributes for economic fibre production

->Agave, pineapple and banana are sources of supply

->From naturally renewable resources, fibres are hard wearing & strong

->Uses include floor coverings, fibres for paper, accessories, shoes and ropes


Seed Hair Fibres->

Picture is from:

http://www.nexuscollections.com/environment.php


Non-tradtional Fibre Sources:


->Cotton is a commercial source of seed hair fibre. These are the more unusual sources

->The fine, light & silky short fibres are used for insulation and fibre filling

->Coir is hard wearing & abrasion resistant, used for floor coverings, geotextles and ropes

->They are a natural renewable resource, and often grown in areas of limited agricultural potential


Peat->


Picture is from:

http://green-drop-home.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=111&zenid=41a7fede103015f26575c5da72d4f948


Non-tradtional Fibre Sources:


->Peat fibre is produced from organic plant remains found in Scandinavia peat bogs

->They have good thermal properties, UV resistance, are antistatic with natural antiseptic properties

->Fabrics have a warm woolen felted handle and are produced organically

->Used in woven & knitted fabrics for clothing, blankets, interior products and footwear


Alginate->


Non-tradtional Fibre Sources:


->Produced from brown sea weed, alginate fibres have natural healing properties from the iodine content

->Blended with cellulose fibres, fabrics are used in underwear that imparts anti-inflammatory and anticeptic benefits to the skin

->In medical applications, non woven alginate fibres hasten blood clotting and encourage healing on damaged skin

->They are used as non-woven burn and skin dressings


Metal Fibres->



Non-tradtional Fibre Sources:


->Aluminium, copper & steel are the metals used in textiles to impart functional and aesthetic properties

->Metal-content fibres have the ability to memorise a pre- determined shape and react to heat

->They can assist in protecting against electromagnetic radiation, and are detectable by radar and heat-seeking devices


Paper->


Picture is from:

http://www.smashingmagazine.com/2008/01/29/grunge-style-in-modern-web-design/


Non-tradtional Fibre Sources:


->Paper fibres come from the renewable resources of pine trees, cotton, rice and abaca, a form of banana plant

->Recent developments in Japan have introduced paper content fabrics with a softer handle

->With a high strength & good light fastness, paper textiles are recyclable

->Used also for accessories & floor-coverings


Man-Made Cellulosics->



Developments in commerical Fibre Sources:


->Produced from natural cellulosic sources of wood pulp, cotton, linen and bamboo

->Textiles are fluid and soft to handle, with strong wet strength, absorbency and breathability

->Tencel is a branded cellulose fibre produced in a ‘closed loop’ system with improved environmental performance

->Lyocell is used in woven & knitted forms, and as a non-woven for medical applications and hospital textiles


Man-Made Synthetics->


Non-Tradtional Fibre Source:


->Polyethylene, PVC, polypropylene and polyurethane are all forms of synthetics from non renewable oil-based resources

->All have properties of high strength, can be heat set, and provide a wide variety of different products for industrial, medical, sports, and medical textiles

->Fibres and products can be recyclable


Polyamide->


Developments In Commercial Fibre Sources:


->This oil-based synthetic fibre is produced from oil, a finite resource. It is very strong, resists wear & tear, and blends well with other fibres

->Polyamide can be engineered to suit specific purposes, such as wicking properties for underwear & active sports, and UV resistance

->Branded Cordura & Kevlar fibres have excellent abrasion resistance, durability & high tensile strength


Polyester->


Developments In Commercial Fibre Sources:


->The worlds most extensively used synthetic fibre, polyester offers a wide range of function and performance factors

->Heat setting allows pleats and shapes to be formed and permanently set

->Recycling is possible from polyester water bottles

->Fabrics can be laser cut and welded

->Microfibres are superfine and sophisticated


Bio-Fibres->


Non-Tradtional Fibres Sources:


->Biotechnology is an exciting area, gaining much attention at the moment

->Dextrose from plants can create a fibre with an environmentally acceptable life cycle

->Spider silk is one of the biologically engineered fibres currently being investigated via genetic modification

->Weight for weight, spider silk is tougher than steel & has attracted much interest from the medical world


Nano-Technology->


Non-Tradtional Fibres Sources:


->Textile technology is using microscopic engineering to manipulate atoms and molecules

->In this way, fibres can be created to spray directly onto 3D forms

->Molecular surface modification can add stain resistance & water proofing to natural fibres without altering the fabric’s surface appearance or handle


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