Little Bundles Of Fibre

Notes Taken From The Second Lecture:

Felting:

-> No harmful emissions

-> Energy consumption is relatively low

-> Monomaterial end products possible

-> Easily recyclable

-> Most fibrous materials can be processed

Felt is one of the oldest ways of making fabric.

It is thought to have been around for about 8000 years.

On an industrial scale its production is very similar to needle-punching.

Felting happens because every strand of wool is covered by tiny scales. The primary mechanism of felting is abrasion. As the individual hairs get rubbed together the scales catch on each other, and the effect is that the whole thing shrinks in an irreversible way to make a mat.

Heat and alkalinity will both help the scales to open out and will speed up the whole felting process.

Can produce from tissue like layers to solid 3D forms. If this is combined with recycled fibres then exciting solutions could be explored.

-> One of the oldest fabrics known to man, felt is made in the simplest and most honest of ways; the matting and bonding of woollen fibres in the presence of heat and moisture. Humble, renewable and remarkably versatile, felt has traditionally surrounded Hive’s.

Hive is an award winning interdisciplinary design partnership specialising in furniture, lighting, interior accessories and design. Formed in 1998 and based in the Oxo Tower on London's South Bank, the work of the studio combines the production of commissioned projects in both interior and product design with the development of its own range of hive label products.

Inspired by these qualities, and working in the spirit on which the studio is based, the collection presents a range of familiar objects reformed with the emphasis on felt. The feltware collection was produced in 1998 and was the first collection to be launched for Hive's own label.

Picture is from: http://www.hivespace.com/docs/products/products_acs_frm.htm

->Moss

Celebrating its 15th anniversary, Moss has continuously presented, through highly curated exhibitions in its now-iconic SoHo gallery, as well as its installations at Design Miami, the ever-evolving rich dialogue between Industrial Design and Studio Art, illuminating the intersections of various disciplines as they merge and morph, fluidly crossing boundaries and breaking taboos surrounding function, decoration, art and design. Championing the work of narrative as well as process-based conceptual artist/designers such as Maarten Baas, Fernando and Humberto Campana, Studio Job, Tord Boontje, Gaetano Pesce, Hella Jongerius, Tom Dixon, Arik Levy, and Andrea Salvetti, Moss articulates the vital thinking that is inherent in their works.

http://www.mossonline.com/gallery-exec/display/home

http://www.mossonline.com/gallery-exec/display/current_200911_remains

-> Claudy Jongstra

(born 1963) designs and produces unique felt fabrics for interiors. She works together with architects and clients around the world to create unique pieces for specific spaces and purposes. Each Claudy Jongstra design is a one-of-a-kind object of contemporary design, partly handmade and incorporating traditional craft techniques and innovative skills. Thanks to her innovative technique, Claudy Jongstra designs can be produced in any format and in any colour. The result can be used as a wall hanging, adhered directly to a wall, or it can be used to cover other surfaces, as a tapestry, or as a fabric, for example, to cover space dividers.

http://www.claudyjongstra.com/node/15

-> Moorhead & Moorhead

is a New York-based architecture and industrial design studio, formed in 2000 by brothers Granger and Robert Moorhead. Driven by the inventive aspects of design, their work explores issues of function and materiality at scales ranging from furniture to architecture.

Collaboration is inherent in the M&M design process. At the core of the work is the pairing of their distinct backgrounds in architecture and industrial design. Each project is a unique synthesis of design, detailing and fabrication. In addition to their ongoing internal collaboration, M&M teams up with a diverse group of outside designers, fabricators and consultants on a project by project basis. Experimentation is fundamental to their work. The M&M studio includes a prototyping shop that allows us to push materials to their limits. Full-scale in-house explorations facilitate inventive design solutions for a wide range of clients.

http://www.moorheadandmoorhead.com/

->Elaine Igoe 

has developed a technique where paper pulp is diluted into a water solution and fired at a gauze fabric to create textured patterned surface. http://www.rca.ac.uk/Default.aspx?ContentID=502327&GroupID=502323&Contentwithinthissection&CategoryID=36647

->Boudicca / Savithri Bartlett 

Non-woven fibres using thermoplastic polyester (Wellbond) Low-melt and high-strength

Useful references:

->Pan UK

Working to eliminate the dangers of toxic pesticides, our exposure to them, and their presence in the environment where we live and work. Nationally and globally, PANUK promote safer alternatives, the production of healthy food, and sustainable farming.

http://www.pan-uk.org/

->Fox Fibre

Natural coloured fibre

http://www.foxfibre.com/

-> Cooper Hewitt

Cooper-Hewitt’s dynamic educational programs provide insight into the ways in which design shapes our lives every day, encouraging us to understand how design can best be used to shape a positive future.

http://www.cooperhewitt.org/

Fibres

Notes taken from our first elective meeting:

Natural Fibres,

Vegetable:

Seed-> Cotton, Organic Cotton, Coconut

Stem/ Bast Fibres-> Flax, Hemp, Jute, Nettle, Ramie, Abaca (Banana Fibre from Sisal, Coir, Pineapple stem)

Leaf-> Peat, Pinukpok (Banana Leaf)

Animal:

Hair-> Wool, qiviut, mohair, cashmere, angora

Silk/Protein-> Silk

Hide-> Leather/Fur

Man-Made Fibres,

Vegetable:

Protein-> PLA (corn starch), Biofibres (spider/goats milk)

Rubber

Paper

Alginate

Cellulose-> Viscose

Mineral:

Petrochemical-> Polyester, Polyamide, PVC, PU, Polyethylene, Polypropylene

Carbon

Metal

Glass

Ceramic

Life Cycle

Cotton->

Picture is from:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/shuttercontrol/2106336489/

Sustainable Production:

->Cotton provides about 45% of the world’s fibre consumption, and is the worlds largest non food crop

->Conventional agriculture accounts for 25% of global insecticide use

->Organic cotton is becoming more widely available

->Naturally coloured cotton is a commercial product

->Cotton can be recycled and composted

Improved Performance:

->Cotton must compete with synthetic fibres in offering improved functionality

->Wind and waterproofing qualities can be added via ‘nano technology’ without altering the fabric’s look or touch

->Core spinning encases stretch elements inside cotton yarns

->Crease resist and easy-care finishes can be added

->Genetic modification can assist with improved crop yields but iscontroversial due to questionable environmental performance

Flax->

Picture is from:

http://www.oilseedworks.com/

Developments In Commercial Fibre Sources:

->This very ancient raw material is known as linen, and offers a wide variety of end uses and products

->In addition to clothing textiles, linen is used in automotive, construction, domestic and interior textile areas

->Enzyme use has improved environmental aspects of production

->Combinations with stretch fibres, silk, viscose and polyester provide a range of functions and characteristics, plus reducingcreasing problems

Silk->

Picture is from:

http://www.geo-agrotour.ge/5.html

Developments In Commercial Fibre Sources:

->This protein based animal fibre is known for its aesthetic appeal & luxurious qualities

->Genetic manipulation can create finer and longer fibres, and inbuilt colour.

->Wild silk from South Africa provides a sustainable income for rural populations

->Strong fine silk fibres are used in the medical world, cosmeticproducts, paper making, insulation and thermal underwear

Wool->

Picture is from:

http://photo.net/photodb/photo.tcl?photo_id=2286013

Developments In Commercial Fibre Sources:

->The original high performance fibre, wool has inbuilt thermal qualities, is weatherproof, has UV resistance, fire protection and elasticity properties

->Sportwool is a mix of merino wool with polyester for active sports clothing

->100% machine washable wool is now available

->Wool is a regeneratable resource, can be produced organically andrecycled

Technical Developments:

->Superfine wool hairs are twice as fine as a human hair

->A viscose-like raw material can be produced from protein found in wool keratin

->Non-woven wool textiles produced by hydro-entanglement reduce fabric production costs to a one step process

->Wool’s versatility makes it useful in industrial, automotive, agricultural and geo-textiles

Luxury Hair Fibres->

Picture is from:

http://www.ronanfibers.com/ronanfibers_009.htm

Developments In Commercial Fibre Sources:

->The most expensive and highly prized fibres in the textile world are obtained from animals living in cold climates

->These hollow hair fibres are excellent thermal insulators and have a soft handle

->Naturally gathered moult hair from farmed fox & mink can be spun and used for excusive knitted, woven or felt products

->Muskox, opussum, rabbit, camel, vicuna and cashmere kel goats all supply luxury fibre

Bast Fibres->

Picture is from:

http://www.maritimeheritageeast.org.uk/themes/maritime-trades/ropemaking

Non-tradtional Fibre Sources:

->Fibres such as nettle, jute and ramie are derived from the inner fibrous stem material of certain plants

->Some crops can offer environmental & social benefits for local native farmers & should be encouraged

->Health giving herbs like luobuma from China produce textile fibre plus beneficial herbal remedies and medication

Hemp->

Picture is from:

http://themoderatevoice.com/15688/hemp-ban-reefer-madness-indeed/

Non-tradtional Fibre Sources:

->Man’s oldest cultivated fibre, hemp is a versatile crop where every part has a use

->It has natural strength, UV resistance, thermal properties & durability

->This naturally renewable resource requires little agricultural assistance

->Hemp is now seen in denim and casual sports fabrics, interior and domestic textiles. In non-woven form it is used for insulation in cars

Leaf Fibres->

Picture is from:

http://www.faqs.org/photo-dict/phrase/2090/leaf-structure.html

Non-tradtional Fibre Sources:

->A minority area as only a few plants have the necessary commercial attributes for economic fibre production

->Agave, pineapple and banana are sources of supply

->From naturally renewable resources, fibres are hard wearing & strong

->Uses include floor coverings, fibres for paper, accessories, shoes and ropes

Seed Hair Fibres->

Picture is from:

http://www.nexuscollections.com/environment.php

Non-tradtional Fibre Sources:

->Cotton is a commercial source of seed hair fibre. These are the more unusual sources

->The fine, light & silky short fibres are used for insulation and fibre filling

->Coir is hard wearing & abrasion resistant, used for floor coverings, geotextles and ropes

->They are a natural renewable resource, and often grown in areas of limited agricultural potential

Peat->

Picture is from:

http://green-drop-home.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=111&zenid=41a7fede103015f26575c5da72d4f948

Non-tradtional Fibre Sources:

->Peat fibre is produced from organic plant remains found in Scandinavia peat bogs

->They have good thermal properties, UV resistance, are antistatic with natural antiseptic properties

->Fabrics have a warm woolen felted handle and are produced organically

->Used in woven & knitted fabrics for clothing, blankets, interior products and footwear

Alginate->

Non-tradtional Fibre Sources:

->Produced from brown sea weed, alginate fibres have natural healing properties from the iodine content

->Blended with cellulose fibres, fabrics are used in underwear that imparts anti-inflammatory and anticeptic benefits to the skin

->In medical applications, non woven alginate fibres hasten blood clotting and encourage healing on damaged skin

->They are used as non-woven burn and skin dressings

Metal Fibres->

Non-tradtional Fibre Sources:

->Aluminium, copper & steel are the metals used in textiles to impart functional and aesthetic properties

->Metal-content fibres have the ability to memorise a pre- determined shape and react to heat

->They can assist in protecting against electromagnetic radiation, and are detectable by radar and heat-seeking devices

Paper->

Picture is from:

http://www.smashingmagazine.com/2008/01/29/grunge-style-in-modern-web-design/

Non-tradtional Fibre Sources:

->Paper fibres come from the renewable resources of pine trees, cotton, rice and abaca, a form of banana plant

->Recent developments in Japan have introduced paper content fabrics with a softer handle

->With a high strength & good light fastness, paper textiles are recyclable

->Used also for accessories & floor-coverings

Man-Made Cellulosics->

Developments in commerical Fibre Sources:

->Produced from natural cellulosic sources of wood pulp, cotton, linen and bamboo

->Textiles are fluid and soft to handle, with strong wet strength, absorbency and breathability

->Tencel is a branded cellulose fibre produced in a ‘closed loop’ system with improved environmental performance

->Lyocell is used in woven & knitted forms, and as a non-woven for medical applications and hospital textiles

Man-Made Synthetics->

Non-Tradtional Fibre Source:

->Polyethylene, PVC, polypropylene and polyurethane are all forms of synthetics from non renewable oil-based resources

->All have properties of high strength, can be heat set, and provide a wide variety of different products for industrial, medical, sports, and medical textiles

->Fibres and products can be recyclable

Polyamide->

Developments In Commercial Fibre Sources:

->This oil-based synthetic fibre is produced from oil, a finite resource. It is very strong, resists wear & tear, and blends well with other fibres

->Polyamide can be engineered to suit specific purposes, such as wicking properties for underwear & active sports, and UV resistance

->Branded Cordura & Kevlar fibres have excellent abrasion resistance, durability & high tensile strength

Polyester->

Developments In Commercial Fibre Sources:

->The worlds most extensively used synthetic fibre, polyester offers a wide range of function and performance factors

->Heat setting allows pleats and shapes to be formed and permanently set

->Recycling is possible from polyester water bottles

->Fabrics can be laser cut and welded

->Microfibres are superfine and sophisticated

Bio-Fibres->

Non-Tradtional Fibres Sources:

->Biotechnology is an exciting area, gaining much attention at the moment

->Dextrose from plants can create a fibre with an environmentally acceptable life cycle

->Spider silk is one of the biologically engineered fibres currently being investigated via genetic modification

->Weight for weight, spider silk is tougher than steel & has attracted much interest from the medical world

Nano-Technology->

Non-Tradtional Fibres Sources:

->Textile technology is using microscopic engineering to manipulate atoms and molecules

->In this way, fibres can be created to spray directly onto 3D forms

->Molecular surface modification can add stain resistance & water proofing to natural fibres without altering the fabric’s surface appearance or handle